Mount Kilimanjaro: The Mountain That Started It All
March 2013, La Trobe University.
I was studying Sports Management when I stumbled upon a forum where professors posted various opportunities. One particular opportunity stood out – a trip to Africa with the option to climb Mount Kilimanjaro. It sounded incredible. I attended the presentation, and by the end of it, I was hooked. Without hesitation, I booked the trip. Fast forward 11 months, and I found myself on a plane to Tanzania.
When I was in my final year of high school, I dreamed of visiting Europe, and I always imagined that would be my first solo travel experience. But instead, I was heading to Africa. My fascination with the continent, fueled by countless wildlife documentaries, made it impossible to contain my excitement.
After two weeks of volunteering, sightseeing, and going on safaris, I was about to take on the world’s tallest free-standing mountain. Here’s how it all unfolded.
Day 1: The Journey Begins
I was one of the first to get up and I had a great shower to start the day – which would end up being the only shower I have for the next 5-6 days. I made sure my bags were packed and a hearty breakfast was served at 8am which included eggs, potatoes, pancakes, sausages, toast, oranges and watermelon. Before we knew it, the Kilimanjaro bus had arrived. First stop was the office where we could rent certain equipment for the hike. I was somewhat underprepared but I knew going into this that I could rent equipment when I got here. I grabbed some snow gloves, a water bottle, waterproof pants, poles and other essentials. All the other equipment was loaded onto the bus and this is where the porters joined us too. For every person, there needed to be 3 porters. Next stop was a little store where the porters picked up our food and supplies. We drove for another 45 minutes, stopping at a store where we bought some snacks and general supplies like toilet paper. As we were about to leave, John decided it would be a great idea to grab a six pack of Kilimanjaro beer, running back to the bus as the rain began to pour heavily. The idea was that we wanted to crack open a beer at the top.
Next stop was the Machame Gate and this is where it all started to feel real. It was still pissing down rain so we quickly got into our wet weather clothes inside the severely cramped bus. Once we disembarked the bus, people began trying to sell us ponchos and bag covers. We spotted a shelter and headed over where we filled in our details and had some lunch. We met an American group as monkeys were lurking around stealing food from people and taking food out of the bins. Unfortunately for Gonz, his muffin was stolen.
The moment had come. We took a group photo in front of the Machame Gate and then we were off. The porters were already ahead of us as we hiked with Gibson, the assistant guide. We had to take it slow with “pole, pole” becoming our mantra throughout the entire climb. In Swahili, it means ‘slowly, slowly’ which in the context of Kilimanjaro was extremely important – a slow, steady pace for successful acclimatization and energy consumption to avoid altitude sickness. But after spending two weeks in Tanzania and especially on Zanzibar Island, I realised that saying applies to everyday life in this country. Anyway, back to the story.
After making it up the first hill, we realised it wasn’t going to be easy. The first part of the Machame route was all forest. It was absolutely stunning and magical with luscious greens all around us. Once we got to some steps, Jake and I began counting each step – much to the amusement and annoyance of the others. Ben more so than others – hitting Jake with his poles every time Jake counted a step. We continued on slowly until we reached Machame Camp, where we met some Danish girls who unfortunately were drenched from the rain. Our tents were already set up and we got into some dry clothes. We had a pretty cool tent setup, which consisted of three sleeping spaces and a dining area in the middle. The porters set up a table and we were served popcorn, tea and hot chocolate. Dinner was served soon after which included fish, potatoes and chili sauce with vegetables, tomatoes and mango. The head guide came in to discuss tomorrow’s plans and excitement was buzzing for Day 2. 9pm rolled around and it was time for bed. What a day.
Day 2: Into the Clouds
It was an early wakeup at 6am. Throughout the night, I kept waking up at random points in the night but for the most part I slept pretty well. The chef had made us hot chocolate, tea and coffee followed by a hot breakfast of eggs, toast and sausages. We continued our trek up which was steeper and rockier than the day before. At the halfway point, we had a small lunch, and it gave us the opportunity to take a small break. This is where I took my first altitude sickness tablet. There were crows and mice lurking around, hoping to scavenge any crumbs we dropped from our lunch. We continued through a very rocky section of the climb. At this point we were amongst the clouds and it was a beautiful sight to behold – I have never been so high in my life.
We eventually reached Shira Camp - a much flatter campsite than the night before but incredibly foggy. The tents were already set up and ready to go. It started raining just as we got into our tents – we couldn’t have timed it any better. A hot lunch was served which we were all craving. A delicious pumpkin soup to begin with, finishing it off with some spaghetti. After lunch we had a couple of hours to spare which people used to take a nap or write in their journals.
At 4:30pm we went for a short acclimation hike up to 3900m. During the hike, our head guide pointed out a little cave that porters and guides used to camp in overnight before it became a hazard – no one wants a cave collapsing while they’re asleep. We stayed up there for about 10-15 minutes before the short walk back to camp where a hot dinner was waiting for us. We had nuts and hot chocolate and tea as an entrée followed by rice, beef stew, salad, beans and vegetables. A delicious banana fritter was served as a small dessert. During dinner the chef’s assistant who we now call Rafiki, pointed out the Kilimanjaro summit to us. The clouds had disappeared, and it was absolutely stunning – a little reminder of how much further we had to go. We took the opportunity to snap some photos before the clouds reappeared, shielding the view. We returned to our dinner, a little colder as I played the Beatles through the speaker.
We went to bed around 7:30pm which is the earliest I’ve been to bed since my childhood. We have a big day ahead of us so a good night’s sleep was paramount. At around 10pm, Gonz woke me up to tell me to come out and look at the stars outside. I was a little hesitant as I was so warm and cozy in my sleeping bag, but Gonz convinced me by saying “you won’t regret it”. I went outside and instantly I was in awe. There were so many stars and I could see the Milky Way – a beautiful purple haze across the night sky. John joined us and pointed out Orion’s Belt and the Southern Cross. It took me climbing up the tallest free-standing mountain in the world to be able to see such a beautiful night sky. It makes you feel incredibly small in comparison to how massive the universe is. Words can’t describe how I was feeling looking up but it’s something that I will hold with me forever.
Day 3: Sunscreen and Snowballs
We woke up at 6am to a cold, crisp morning. After the standard breakfast of toast, eggs and sausages, we were ready for Day 3. Today the sun was out and the skies were clear. Although it was super cold initially, it began to warm up – reminding me a little of the weather back home in Melbourne. We put on some sunscreen and the sunglasses were essential – not just for looking good but because the sun was incredibly bright. We began heading into the direction of the summit, the same sight we were saw when the clouds cleared last night at dinner.
It was a very gradual climb but because of the heat, it was rather difficult. But it provided an opportunity for Gonz to charge his solar pack – picture a man walking up a steep hill, holding his solar pack with both hands, pointed at the sun. Today’s goal was to reach Lava Tower which was about 4600m and then descend back to 3900m at Barranco Camp. This was necessary to acclimatise to a higher altitude and then recover at a lower elevation at night. It minimises the risk of altitude sickness and increases the likelihood of a successful summit. The pace we hiked was even slower than yesterday, maintaining our ‘pole, pole’ mantra. We hiked over some rocky terrain and over a water stream but it was rather straightforward. We had multiple breaks throughout, one of which gave us the perfect shot to snap some group photos of the summit.
As we continued towards Lava Tower, we saw some beautiful mountain scenery. We began coming across snow which provided the perfect opportunity to make snowballs and throw them at each other. Once we reached Lava Tower we stopped to acclimatise. We saw birds, crows and those mountain mice again (I’m sure they have an actual name). After 20 minutes we descended towards Barranco Camp which took us about 2 hours. Throughout our descent we saw some mountain scenery including those trees that look like pineapples.
It was a welcome sight when we were reached Barranco Camp. It was a big day and we were wrecked, having climbed up and down for over 10km. Most of us had a headache and we began taking whatever painkiller each of us had. Rafiki was already in our tent preparing our plates. We were served hot chocolate and tea and a big plate of popcorn. To amuse ourselves, Ben and Jake played a game of ‘What are the odds’ for who will drink a hot chocolate with a Hydralite. Jake lost. We decided to play a game of Pictionary and Jake and I smashed it. For dinner we had pasta with vegetable sauce and a delicious salad. After dinner the clouds had cleared and we were able to see the Barranco Wall – tomorrow’s challenge. After a while we began settling into bed.
All of a sudden, a search and rescue was under way…......for Rach’s head torch. No one could find it and after a while, the search was called off – to be resumed at first light. An eventful day from start to finish.
Day 4: Conquering Barranco Wall
5:30am wakeup to the cold, crisp air, keeping in theme with the last couple of mornings. Breakfast we had sausages, banana fritter and toast before setting off to climb Barranco Wall. It was a tough rocky climb but the view from the top was incredible. We continued our hike through the beautiful Karanga Valley and stopped at a river at the bottom of a steep hill which would lead us to Karanga Camp. It was just a lunch stop here which consisted of soup, chips, chicken and salad. Jake lost a game of ‘What are the odds’ and now had to drink his Kilimanjaro beer from his sock at the summit. There was a chance of rain so we hopped into our wet weather gear – a little easier this time compared to inside the cramped bus.
We climbed up yet another steep hill and through a little valley where Rach gave us a quick lesson in erosion and how it shapes parts of the mountain. We reached the last hill which took us to base camp – Barafu Camp. Rach crashed almost straight away while us boys chilled and took some pills for our headaches and potential altitude sickness. We began looking at photos we’d already taken, having a good laugh in the process. One of the zippers to the tent’s entrance broke and it was paramount that we fixed it as any cold air that gets in, was not pleasant. As we were waiting for dinner, we began creating a playlist for tomorrow’s summit hike. Spaghetti was served for dinner at 5:30pm and then we were in bed by 6:30pm as we had to wake up at 11:30pm for our summit hike. I didn’t sleep very well and before I knew it was time to wake up again.
Day 5: The Final Push to Uhuru Peak
At around 12:40am we headed off for the summit. Pitch black outside in the cold air with only head torches lighting the way. The first song on the playlist was “Eye of the Tiger” motivating us to box our way through the difficult challenge we had ahead of us. The summit hike started well. Everyone was up and about, and we went at a really slow but consistent pace. A few of us began taking painkillers and altitude sickness tablets to get us through. Rach was starting to struggle at about halfway and the stopping and starting was having an effect. We decided to split up. A couple of the boys and the assistant guide went ahead and the remaining stuck with Rach to help her through with any words of encouragement we had.
Stella Point was the first viewpoint and this was a great spot to witness the sunrise. Jake and I were beginning to struggle too - our legs were tired and our feet were frozen. The slower pace we were now walking at may have tired us out more, but we were determined to get Rach up this hill. The sun began to rise over the clouds and we hadn’t quite made it to Stella Point. The last 10 or so metres up to Stella Point were tough. Although we didn’t make it for sunrise, it was still an amazing feeling but it wasn’t over. Next point was Uhuru Peak; the top of Africa.
We began the last stretch to the top with a few stops for water. At this point, the altitude sickness was starting to take effect. The struggle was real but we came all this way, we had to make it. After yet another painkiller and altitude sickness pill, we pushed on. The summit was in sight and as we reached Uhuru Peak, pure joy and elation came over us. Gibson, Ben and Gonz were waiting for us and Gonz snapped a photo of us three as we reached the summit – still my favourite photo from the climb. We took a group photo in front of the summit sign, individual photos and Jake took his preplanned naked photo on the top – Gonz joining him.
Our plan to drink a Kilimanjaro beer on the summit didn’t eventuate. We were all too sick to try, let alone finish one. We were one of the last to leave the summit and we made the most of standing on the ‘Roof of Africa’. It was just an incredibly surreal feeling – no amount of adjectives could describe the overwhelming sense of achievement I felt being up there. Honestly, words can’t describe it. It was unreal.
Ben had already left at this point, he was sicker than all of us. The rest of us began descending back to base camp. I tell you what, walking down after conquering a mountain – no matter how tall – is one of the best feelings in the world. You’re overcome with this sense of accomplishment that the hard part is over and now you can head back down with pride – head held high, chest out, shoulders back – reflecting on what you’ve just achieved.
Well…...until you slip on your arse.
I lost count of how many times I slipped but each one was a funny reminder how far we had come and how hard we worked to get there.
Although we were up pretty high, the weather was beginning to warm up and I ending up stripping off the multiple layers I had on. The head guide insisted I give all my layers to the summit porter as “that’s what he’s here for”. I remember the summit porter telling us how much he enjoys this job and that this is his ‘office’ – not a bad place to work. I was starting to feel dizzy and my headache was getting worse, but nothing could take away from the immense joy I was feeling. We made it back to base camp welcomed by hugs, handshakes and heartfelt congratulations. We had time for a one-hour nap and upon waking up I felt terrible – like the worst hangover you can imagine.
After some lunch, we packed up and continued our descent towards Mweka Camp. It was all downhill from here which was tough on the legs but the more we descended, the more the altitude sickness began to wear off. We kept passing this same group which ended up turning into a game of leapfrog. Once we reached Mweka Camp, we found our tents already set up like usual. Popcorn was served and we charged our devices, especially our speaker for the final descent tomorrow. For dinner we had rice and vegetables – most of us couldn’t finish it – by this point we had lost our appetite. We began making plans to have burgers first thing when we get back to Arusha tomorrow. As our altitude sickness had worn off, it was time to drink our well-deserved beers before crashing for the night.
Day 6: The Descent and that Final Song
Our final day on the mountain.
Our time here was coming to an end and the only thing ahead of us was the finish line – Mweka Gate. The hard part was behind us, no more steep climbs or altitude headaches. The descent took us through lush rainforest as the trail grows wider but a little muddier underfoot. The tall trees shielded us from the hot sun – a stark contrast from the days prior. There was a different atmosphere in the air - no more struggle, just a relaxed walk down. We stopped to witness an unforgettable performance from the guides and porters - a song and dance to top off an incredible 6 days. A song, full of heart and humour, that encapsulated all the challenges and triumphs along the climb – leaving us with memories that last a lifetime. To the delight of all the porters and guides, we put on Bob Marley for the final stretch of the hike.
With the finish line in sight, it only seemed fitting to play ‘We are the Champions’ as we walked through Mweka Gate. We were greeted with hugs, smiles and cheers – a moment of triumph. We had done it. We soaked up the moment before boarding the bus back to Arusha with Bob Marley still blasting through the speaker – burgers and beers waiting for us.
Final Reflection
I still look back on my time climbing Kilimanjaro as one of the coolest things I’ve ever done. It was part of my first ever solo trip abroad and it set me up for all the incredible places I’ve seen – and those still to come. It sparked something in me from the day I left Tanzania. I knew that travelling would be one of my greatest passions. As a kid and throughout my teenage years, I had dreamed of travelling the world, fully immersing myself in different cultures. It taught me that through all the struggle that something beautiful can come out it. And if you love something enough, you will find a way to make it happen.
Sharing this experience with some absolute legends was the cherry on top. I’m still in contact with them to this day and this experience is something I will never forget.
I will probably never climb Kilimanjaro again – the whole been there, done that thing – but if I ever did, I hope it’s a little easier getting up that hill to Stella Point.